Caerlaverock Castle: The Magical Triangle Castle In Scotland

Introduction

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Hidden close to the Dumfriesshire coastline of Scotland, a fairytale, triangle castle has stood since the late 13th century. Its actual name is Caerlaverock Castle, and it has a very distinctive triangular design (complete with turrets and a story-book green moat) that makes it a worthy stop on your lowland travels.

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While it’s seen a lot of turbulence in its lifetime, the only drama that Caerlaverock Castle has now is visual drama. If you’re in Dumfries and Galloway, definitely spend a few hours exploring this unique triangular castle and learn about its rich history. 

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Don’t forget to bring a camera and take advantage of this dreamy photo opportunity - after all, it’s been featured on the big screen, including “The Legend of King Arthur” and “The Decoy Bride.”

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Where is Caerlaverock Castle?

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Caerlaverock Castle is located in southern Scotland, close to the coast (and the border!) just 20 minutes south of Dumfries.

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A Brief History of Scotland’s Triangle Castle

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The Original Caerlaverock Castle

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Thanks to its location on the border between Scotland and England, Caerlaverock Castle has seen a lot of battles. It was built in the 1220s by the Maxwell family after they were gifted the land by Scottish King Alexander II.

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Except it didn’t hang around for very long - after around 50 years, the castle was demolished and rebuilt 200 metres away. At the time, the “old castle” was one of the first to be built in Scotland, and they made a few beginner’s mistakes! Signage around the castle now explains that the ground was too wet thanks to the tidal inlet, and the buildings began collapsing.

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The Triangular Castle Appears

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The second time around, the castle was moved further from the inlet (now non-existent) and built in a much wiser manner. The distinctive triangular shape of this fortress helped to provide extra defence, and an internal water well was included to better withstand a siege. Strangely enough, its triangle shape is one-of-a-kind within the UK, so it’s doubtful that other buildings would have inspired this change.

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Caerlaverock Castle Under Attack

Over the next few hundred years, the new castle suffered from many attacks, despite the extra fortification. The most famous siege came from English King Edward I in 1300, who had successfully invaded Wales and was intent on conquering Scotland, too. 

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Attacking with over 3000 men, 87 knights and siege machines, it was a formidable force and the castle fell in just 2 short days. It’s actually a very well-recorded siege in mediaeval history, featured in the poem, “The Roll of Karlaverock” written by a herald in Edward’s army.

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“…while huge stones and bolts and arrows rained upon them till they reeled, wounded, wearied, and scarce able to find strength to crawl away.”

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The Last Straw for Caerlaverock Castle

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Miraculously, the Maxwell family retained ownership of the castle until 1640, when the Protestant Covenanters attacked (owing to the Catholic stance of the Maxwells) for a full 13 weeks. Under Lieutenant-Colonel John Home, the 200-strong army managed to successfully force the Maxwell family’s surrender, then destroy much of the castle’s walls to ensure it could never be used again for defence.

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Visiting Caerlaverock Castle

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Opening times

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This unique triangular fortress is only open during the warmer months from 1st April - 30th September. 

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Admission prices

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Tickets usually cost £7.50 per person, but it’s currently reduced while repairs are being undertaken to the masonry. This does mean some parts of the castle interior are inaccessible, but don’t let it put you off your visit - there’s still plenty to see. Full and reduced ticket prices can be found here.

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How to get to the castle

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If you’re travelling by car, the castle is a 20 - 30 minute drive from Dumfries. This does include some single-track roads, but the hedges are low, so visibility won’t be a problem.

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There’s a sizable grass car park (with an underlying plastic grip) available just 100m or so from the castle itself. It costs nothing to park here and makes for a very accessible place to visit - although, on a summer weekend, I would still expect it to fill up quickly!

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If you’re on foot, I recommend taking the bus as there’s a perfect stop at the end of Castle Road. After hopping off the bus, it’s a few minutes walk to the Caerlaverock Castle entrance. Naturally, the main bus line from Dumfries takes around 25 minutes. Getting to Dumfries in the first place is best done via the train.

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Experiencing Caerlaverock Castle

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After a short walk from the car park, you’ll find yourself crossing a small wooden bridge over the moat, replacing what would have been the original drawbridge. Guarding the entrance are two massive towers and a gatehouse, which would have housed the Maxwell family and their private chambers. 

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The gatehouse defences include projecting machicolations - large openings in the walls through which missiles or molten lead could be poured. The sizeable arched passageway leads out into the central cobbled courtyard and a full view of the more recent Renaissance architectural lodgings built in the 1600s. In contrast, the West Tower (better known as Murdoch’s Tower) is starkly mediaeval. While you can explore the interior of these lodgings, the intricate carvings over each door are the most impressive feature here.

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Beyond the castle and through light woodland, a short boardwalk trail will lead you into a clearing with the remains of the “old” Caerlaverock Castle, which has been recently excavated. Definitely take some time to explore this area as it is much easier to visualise the differences between the old and new!

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Where to stay near the castle

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If you’re looking for the closest option, Bankswood Cottage is the one for you. Situated just 3.3km away from Caerlaverock Castle, it’s just a short drive (or walk) from the house. This gorgeous 3-bedroom cottage has the cutest woodburner, conservatory and sea view!

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A little further away, the village of Ruthwell has a couple of options too. My favourite is The Stables, a stunning, recently renovated 3-bedroom villa complete with a wood burner, hot tub, large garden and outdoor cooking area. Not only that, but the owners have taken steps to ensure The Stables is an eco-friendly, sustainable place to live, and will happily allow dogs. What more could you want from a stay in the country?

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If you just need a room, The Farmers Inn is the perfect fit - facilities include a terrace, sports facilities and a bar, and you’ll also get a full English breakfast with your stay. Take a drink in an armchair by the fire, then retire to your contemporary room and private bathroom.

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If you’re stopping by on a tour and need somewhere to park up for the night, Caerlaverock Castle Corner Campsite is right next door and completely free! It’s closer to motorhome parking than a campsite, but it does have a small toilet block and chemical waste disposal. Donations are optional but encouraged to help with maintenance. Places like this are few and far between in the UK!

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Things to Do Near Caerlaverock Castle

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Walk at Caerlaverock National Nature Reserve

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Located within walking distance of the castle, the Nature Reserve is a great spot to experience some peace and stretch your legs. With a mixture of boardwalk and gravel paths, you can wander between the reeds and marshes without worrying about wet feet!

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Visit the Caerlaverock Wetland Centre

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This is the perfect place to spot some Scottish wildlife - depending on the time of year, you might see ospreys, bats, owls, falcons and more. The Wetland Centre is a short 5-minute drive from Caerlaverock Castle, open from 9 am - 5 pm, 7 days a week. You can get your coffee and cake fix from the small café too!

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Eat at The Boathouse Glencaple

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This hidden gem of a café is less than 10 minutes from the castle and features an award-winning menu with panoramic views over the River Nith. The Boathouse Glencaple is dog-friendly too, which makes it the perfect brunch stop after a morning walk with your pup. Open 9 am - 5 pm every day.

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